Thread Count and Yarn Count: Understanding Fabric Quality Metrics

When it comes to textiles, there are several important factors that determine the quality and characteristics of a fabric. Two key metrics used to describe fabrics are thread count and yarn count. While they may seem similar at first glance, these terms actually refer to different aspects of textile production.

Thread Count

Thread count is a measure of the number of threads per unit length in a woven fabric. It can be broken down into warp density (the number of vertical threads) and weft density (the number of horizontal threads). In China, both cotton and wool fabrics are typically measured using metric density.

According to standards, the thread count should be expressed as the number of warp or weft threads within a 10cm width. In practice, fabric thread counts are often represented in the format "warp x weft" from left to right.

The direction with a higher thread count will tend to have greater bending properties and appear more prominent on the fabric's surface compared to areas with lower density. This metric is important for understanding how a fabric will feel and drape.

Testing methods for measuring thread count involve determining the length and mass of yarn samples, using tools like frame-type length measuring instruments and equal-arm balances or electronic scales.

Yarn Count

Yarn count, on the other hand, refers to the thickness or fineness of individual strands of fiber used to create a fabric. There are several different systems for measuring yarn count:

1. Weight per length

Metric Count (Nm)

This measures the length in meters of one gram of yarn at standard moisture regain. The formula is Nm = L/G, where L is length and G is grams.

For example, if one gram of cotton can be spun into 30 meters of yarn, it has 30 counts; if one gram of cotton can be spun into 40 meters of yarn, it has 40 counts. For plied yarns, the metric count is represented by dividing the metric count of the single yarn that forms the plied yarn by the number of plies (e.g., 26/2, 60/2). If the single yarns forming a plied yarn have different counts, the metric count is expressed as individual yarn counts separated by a slash (e.g., 21/42). The formula for calculating the metric count of a plied yarn is: Nm = 1 / (1/N1 + 1/N2 + ... + 1/Nn)

The higher the yarn count, the finer and softer the fabric woven with such yarn will be. However, fabrics with high yarn counts require high-quality raw materials and demand higher standards for spinning mills and weaving factories, resulting in increased production costs.

English Count (Ne)

English count is expressed as the number of 840 yards (or 560 yards per pound for wool yarn) in one pound (453.6 grams) of cotton yarn. The formula for calculating English count is: Ne = L (in yards) / {G (in pounds) × 840}

If a single pound of yarn has a length of 60 × 840 yards, the yarn fineness is 60 English counts or 60S. The representation and calculation methods for the English count of plied yarns are similar to those used in metric count.

2.Weight for a constant length

In contrast to metric and English count which measure weight per length, fixed length systems like tex and denier determine a fiber or yarn's weight for a constant length:

• Tex (Ntex) measures the grams of 1000 meters of yarn
• Denier (Nden) calculates the grams of 9000 meters

Tex (Ntex)

Tex is commonly used in Europe while denier comes from the French word "denier" meaning ten-thousandth part of a Roman pound. Refers to the weight in grams of 1000 meters of fiber or yarn at standard moisture regain. Ntex = 1g/1000m.

For single yarn, this can be written as "18 tex," which indicates that the weight of the yarn is 18 grams when it's 1000 meters long. For plied yarns with two single yarns of 18 tex combined, the resulting fineness would be 36 tex or denoted as 18X2.

If the single yarns forming a plied yarn have different tex values, the tex value for the plied yarn is determined by adding the individual tex values together (e.g., 18 tex + 15 tex = 33 tex). For fibers, the tex value may be too large; in such cases, decitex (Ndtex) is used instead. Decitex refers to the weight in grams of 10,000 meters of fiber at its official moisture regain and can be calculated using this formula: Ndtex = (10000G × Gk) / L = 10 × Ntex

Denier (Nden)

Measures the weight in grams of 9000 meters of fiber or yarn. Nden = 1g/9000m.

For instance, a yarn labeled as “30 denier” would weigh 30 grams for every 9000 meters of length. This measure helps textile professionals and consumers understand how thin or thick a particular yarn is, which can influence factors such as drape, softness, and overall fabric feel. The lower the denier value, the finer or thinner the yarn. In fashion design and manufacturing, selecting appropriate deniers ensures that textiles meet specific performance requirements for different applications.

The higher the numerical value for any of these systems, the coarser the yarn. Finer yarns result in softer, thinner fabrics. However, finer yarns also require better quality raw materials and skilled production techniques, which can increase costs.

Conversion Formulas

To convert between different yarn count systems, various formulas are available. For example:

• Nm to Tex: Ntex = 1000/Nm
• Ne to Tex: Ntex = (840/Ne) × G / L
• Tex to Denier: Nden = (9000/Ntex)

Testing and Measurement Standards

National and ministerial standards in China require cotton and wool fabrics to be measured using metric density. In production, thread count is often represented as "warp x weft" from left to right.

For yarn count, testing involves measuring the length and mass of samples to determine their linear density. This helps ensure the correct thickness for specific applications.

Importance in Production

The direction with a higher thread or yarn count will tend to have greater bending properties. More threads per inch means a fabric will feel denser and more substantial.

In conclusion, understanding the difference between thread count and yarn count is essential for textile professionals. Thread count measures the number of threads per length while yarn count determines fiber strand thickness. Both metrics play important roles in determining fabric quality characteristics like softness and drape. By mastering these measurement systems, manufacturers can produce higher quality fabrics that meet end-user expectations. The careful testing and application of thread and yarn counts ensures fabrics are made to precise specifications for various uses and designs.

FAQs

Q1: Can thread count be higher than 600? Thread counts can exceed 600, with some fabrics reaching over 2000 threads per square inch. However, there is a point of diminishing returns where the perceived quality and comfort may not significantly improve beyond certain levels.

Q2: Are Egyptian cotton sheets always better due to their thread count? While Egyptian cotton is known for its softness and high-quality fibers, relying solely on thread count can be misleading when comparing different brands or products. Other factors such as fiber content and weave pattern also contribute to the overall quality and feel of the fabric.

Q3: How does yarn count affect knitting or weaving processes? Yarn count directly influences the thickness and strength of strands used in knitting or weaving fabrics, affecting factors like stitch definition, drape, and durability of finished products. Selecting appropriate yarn counts ensures that textiles meet specific performance requirements for various applications.

Q4: Is there an ideal balance between thread count and yarn count for certain types of fabrics? The optimal balance depends on the intended use and desired characteristics of a textile product. For instance, bedsheets may prioritize higher thread counts for comfort while allowing some flexibility in yarn count to achieve desirable weave patterns or texture. Garments might emphasize specific yarn qualities for strength and drape.

Q5: How can I test the accuracy of thread count claims made by manufacturers? Verifying thread count involves examining a small section of fabric under magnification, ensuring an accurate count of warp and weft threads per square inch. This method helps confirm whether advertised thread counts align with actual product specifications.

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